[musical accompaniment ala
.]Back some time ago (weeks, maybe?), Amy Smilovic of Tibi started referencing a Style Mullet (or alternatively, a fashion mullet). Here’s an example of this discussion; I’m no fashion chronologist and can’t be sure if it was her (or any) first use of the term.
And here’s how she explained it, referencing the Traci outfit above: “The friction, the interest here, happens with the unexpected. It’s also why the Dwayne sandals work so perfectly - they have the right amount of ‘heft’ to stand up to sweatshirt but not so refined as to turn this outfit in to a style mullet - sport event on top, sophisticated outing on bottom. The weaving in and out of sport, refinement, strength is what’s making Traci feel great here.”
As with many things Tibi, this “style mullet” designation has caused all sorts of talk waves and shock waves. Wait, friction isn’t just the answer to everything? But like, that’s what we thought Amy said before!
That was my first reaction.
Like, oh no, am I mullet-ing? Before I thought that an outfit plus some friction and I was all set! All good! Now there’s some other thing? This mullet issue? It’s like when I’m eking out my pushups and Jason, my trainer says “move your hands back under your shoulders” and then he says “you didn’t lower your butt.”
It’s always something!
I started looking at these outfits, and looking at the outfits I was creating, and like the little gunner I am, began analyzing what made a mullet a mullet. And in comments, if people were asking about it, I’d drop my learnings there.
But then I stopped for a sec.
First up, mullets are not “bad”
Bowie, anyone? So many examples of complicated, talented, interesting, stylish mullet-wearers.
But also — cultural references. Mullets are very popular in Colombia, for example. I’ve seen Columbian kids wearing them at a quinceañera. They have complicated origins.
And there’s a connection with the transgender community. Mullet Proof Haircare says this: “If you are tired of your hair being categorized or gendered, we are here to put an end to it! … You want a mullet? You got it! Hate mullets? No problem. Queer? Kick ass! So are we. We promise to always show you respect, and will not allow hate in our space, ever - no exceptions.”
I know “style mullet” was intended lightly! Not freaking out. But I’m also trying to look at myself when I can. Why did I immediately hear “mullet” as criticism?
Business in the front, party in the back — that sounds pretty reasonable to me. I prefer the self that waits to get to know someone or something versus the self that wants to “good and bad” things. I want to get away from that.
Some people are mullet-agnostic!
Our fearless reporter
addressed what she calls “contrast” or the “pink elephant in the room” — first by telling us about the “vibe sandwich” — where the top and bottom of an outfit are one vibe, with another sandwiched in between. Party on top and bottom. Or, in the middle. And then deciding that the sandwich approach might be “a little too forced” and suggesting mixes of seasons, colors/patterns, and vibes. Because even if “contrast dressing can skew a little ‘try-hard’ or clownish” it’s worth exploring because “almost every outfit that gives me a full-body-YES contains some contrast.”I hard yes that yes. In the comments, I was musing that “for me mohawk effect happens when it's like a "two" (versus, one/tone/none) — two starkly contrasting things, without any thread to bind them, can make me feel like "hi I need to be different" versus feeling easy and related to function/making sense.” — Funny, I was using mohawk and meaning mullet. But anyway, Kelly said “I like when the contrast feels purposeful. Becky wrote about pairing her leather jacket with a feminine dress and I loved that example of contrast because it's making it easier to wear both things while still feeling like ourselves. Ultimately we all just want to feel like ourselves.”
Ultimately we all just want to feel like ourselves. I like that.
And also, friction itself isn’t for everyone!
has mentioned that her “wrong shoe theory” has been misinterpreted and to mean you have to choose a wacky shoe. That what she means is just not the most obvious shoe: “it is about pushing past your first instinct and choosing a LESS obvious shoe.”My friend
is actually not at all about the high contrast game. She wrote in her piece called “Die, Sportswear” (don’t you just love her for the title alone?): “The hunt for friction led me to buy and wear things that I don’t think looked (or felt) nice… things I actually hate to wear, like a baseball cap and those hoodies and sneakers. The imposed notion of friction encouraged me to travel beyond my aesthetic, which was probably supposed to feel like a world of fun, but it didn’t materialize into anything other than unfortunate outfits and alienation from my sense of self … I believe that the idea of friction can be fruitful, but I’m reminded of the fact that menswear style advice never encourages the reader to dabble in friction from the get-go. Friction in menswear is only for the highly advanced, and the reader is advised to stay carefully within the bounds of their own sense of self and play only after they know what they are doing. Whereas women’s style advice tends to focus on frivolity, fun, quick cheap thrills or irony when it comes to friction, menswear style advice leans on depth and a deep sense of understanding oneself.”I’ll take a sandwich (but not a ham one!)
For me, I do crave friction. I really don’t feel quite like myself when something isn’t off somehow. Sometimes it’s just A LITTLE something, like a T-shirt with linen pants. Or boat shoes with a dressed up outfit. And sometimes I want more, and I can feel a little lost when I crave that.
Kelly’s vibe sandwich observation has really helped. The formula of matching the vibe in a top and shoes while contrasting it in the center is one I can go to when I (working on my style knowledge, here with you!) feel lost — and don’t want to feel contrived, try hard, “fradiculous.” It’s one of the tools that helps me feel like I have an answer.
Call it what you want (though not a mullet), I personally don’t like it when the contrast is sharp. That’s when I notice I feel silly in my clothes. For me, the leather jacket and floral dress doesn’t feel like me, personally.
DNA check
And come to think of it, the first diagnostic tool I suggest when your friction addition feels off is what I advise my Honor Code clients and why we always start with DNA: Run it through your DNA as filter.
My DNA is Miami King, for short. Modern, exaggerated, dad. (In Tibi speak, easy, modern, heritage, and modifier is Miami. In the case of the floral dress and leather jacket — it doesn’t have any “dad,” that prep-heritage-gentlemannish piece. I looked at a floral dress just the other day in Loewe. This one:
How would I wear it?
with a tee (maybe striped or ringer if that doesn’t feel too retro/corny) under it and a loafer or flip flop
with one of my torn menswear tees on top and a brogue
with my Closet Hero black mens’ style blazer on my shoulders and cone heel in a color that’s not in the dress
With swaggery denim under and my Closet Hero tan sweater for AC somewhere
With my chunkiest sandal and a dad-sock
With my dad’s croc belt and a longer slip under it
Shoot, now I really want this dress. (What I like about it is it’s silk (breathable), easy, long enough to wear without pants if you want but tunic-y enough to wear with them, and layerable. But I digress.) The way I WOULDN’T wear it is “straight on” - like as a pretty floral dress to a shower with a pretty neutral sandal. I guess putting a leather jacket on is akin to how it’s styled in the Netaporter image with the slouchy black boot. Maybe the other thing is that I lived through that period, the 90s grunge period? Things look and feel different to a different eye for so many reasons.
Softening the blow
Overall, though I think I am in Amy camp, nomenclature notwithstanding, in that I’m more drawn to softer contrasts. Kelly’s sandwich formula does the softening or “weaving” work, ensuring that the friction isn’t one jarring shot but feels at least a bit more woven through.
IF you’re drawn to friction AND you feel off or unsure, here are some other approaches I find helpful once you try tuning into your DNA:
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