In post social media world, are we all just ... copies?
Is there still such a thing as personal style?
Recently I was chatting with my friend Tiia of Sunday Style Thoughts, who posed the question (genius as usual): “has Tibi changed your style?”
I thought: “That would make a killer post” and set out to write it. But I realized that before I did, I needed to answer this question. Is there a “style” to change? And not just whether I have any style (which I’ve addressed and am ok with!) But does anyone? … Does personal style even exist anymore?
See, Kelly from Any Given Day recently wrote about something that’s on my mind often. She was talking about how sometimes you scroll through your Instagram and everyone is a carbon copy. As I write this sentence an image comes to my mind of a Yankees cap, wide leg work trouser, a chunky sneaker, a small Kelly bag, all neutral tones. You know what I mean? But ALSO, if I talk about this in a way that uses the word “copy” then it implicates a kind of judgment that I am fighting like hell, and that is much more important IMHO than whether we all wear the same outfit. (Hmmm.)
And also, I may not be wearing the outfit I just described (which by the way looks lovely). But my whole style is plagiaristIc. In some way.
I am influenced!
And I suspect that all but a very few are on some level. In my case it’s really overt because I don’t have that born-with-it personal style.
But think about it for a second, who actually does?
The One Percent
In this category I would put, off the top of my head: Iris Apfel, Dione Davis, Leandra Medine, Ralph Lauren, Sarah Clary (notice I didn’t say Jenna Lyons, because I suspect that JL has great taste, is a great editor/arbiter, but it’s Sarah who has the true personal style … more below on how I define it) … and my dad. And also a stylist I once worked with at M.Gemi whose name is escaping me, but her personal on-set looks (or should I say lewks) will always remain, which some days might involve a vintage ski sweater and white/yellow Damier LV bag from the Marc Jacobs era that I still think about (too) often.
Interesting, now that I think about it, that the people who come to mind are over 80 or are stylists. Maybe there’s something about those who developed and refined their style without seeing what other people are wearing all over social media. But what I really feel is that there’s a genetic aspect to it. Your eye does something. You know yourself. You create an inside world that’s yours, and because it is, you KNOW how to dress for it and are willing to “go there” without needing to look to others for ideas or approval.
The Sliding Scale
These one percenters are people wake up in the morning and know who they are. Now my mom looks amazing (and beautiful), but her style comes from observing, trying, and honing her eye, as does mine. She’s a killer student, and always hard at work. Same. She says I have “better” personal style - but is there such a thing? I think it’s just that I am deeper in it. Eyes a little more open. Willing to go out of my comfort zone.
So maybe personal style is a sliding scale, kind of (not at all) like the old Kinsey scale of sexuality.
The X above is “I don’t care about style" (nudists, for example.) The 6 are those uber stylish, which I suspect is like 1-3% of the world. At one are people who would say they hate their style. At 2-3 are the editors and curators, not uber confident, learning and exploring. Can often look good. Maybe move into a #4 with practice, increasing confidence, etc. At 4-5, people are interested and know who they are, but also influenced, combining a sense of certainty of self with ideas culled from various sources and layered on top.
Actual Personal Style = (?)
What does that teeny % have? I suppose if “personal style” is subjective, my POV isn’t yours. But I’d say a high index of originality and a high index of confidence — security in their original choices.
If I were charting it for a brand as part of my full time job, it might go like this
Because I think that upper right quadrant is a tiny percentage of the population, I think it’s pretty unique to have grown up so close to one of them like my dad. So let me share what I’ve observed
To say he has a keen eye is an understatement. He notices EVERYTHING. He will look at a building everyone walks by every day and be stopped in his tracks because there is something “off,” say, some line in the brick that reveals a window used to be different before
He’s been making instinctive aesthetic choices his whole life — taking all the chrome off his car as a kid, as an adult refusing to have that border around a license plate the dealer gives you, taking tap dance classes largely for the shoes (he still remembers how he had to walk a stone floor to take the attendance sheets to the principal’s office and how he loved the sound they made)
Style penetrates every single moment and area of his life; he bought a modernist Bauhaus home in the early 70s when literally everyone else in his family and friend group was buying center entrance colonials; he loves cars with beautiful lines
There’s always something unexpected. Even in his more traditional, preppier moments, there’s always been a twist in how HE does it, and it comes so naturally he doesn’t even pointedly know it’s happening, it’s that instinctive, two shirts layered over each other, unexpected colors (he’ll say “I got cold so I put the sweater on” and it’s a melon colored shirt and a gray blue sweater and it’s so COOL), playful socks etc.
He loves and sees the beauty of function. He’s always observed and relished subtle details like a working button, or a removable flap of suede so a shirt I bought him can be cleaned.
He’s not status-oriented, because the confidence is inside. He has distinctive loves that have nothing to do with status - like hand knit sweaters and his beloved Il Bisonte pouches, patinaed over time, his “man-bags”
And he’s completely assured in all of it, impervious to how old something is (the older the better; it looks modern on him) or how others are doing it (Have I mentioned that time I saved up and got us Red Sox seats in the bleachers? he wore a straw hat and a linen jacket.)
That, to me is personal style. And I would say my first moment of being influenced is by my dad. It continues to this day. When I have tried to examine whether I have “style” I’ve tried to think about a time when, like my dad, I had true likes and dislikes that felt instinctive versus shaped by what others are doing, magazines, socials, etc. And when I do, I think about this childhood men’s style red and white plaid shirt I loved and that felt so “me” I can still remember the feeling of it… but that wasn’t original “Rachel Style” - it was influenced by my dad!
So What’s the Point?
If only one small percent of people have true personal style, as I believe is the case, then we’re all being influenced. We are at different places on the sliding scale, maybe, we care more or less, we’re good at spotting (taste), editing, culling, adapting or less so … but it’s all just shades of. The vast majority of us who care are are editor/adapters not creators of style.
So …
I go back to judgement - who are we to say one approach is “better than” the other? (Including nudity! Enjoy!)
If I copy or am “inspired by” or whatever … your style, can you be warmly flattered, knowing you too are probably influenced, most of us are, vs. deeming me a plagiarist?
If most of us have no true personal style, then can a brand or influencer “change” our personal style? Or is “it” something always in flux — a sense of who we want to be/how we want to present ourselves/what feels right that’s shaped by all sorts of inside and outside forces, pervious and not impervious?
And maybe then, THAT is, in its own right, a life of style. The excitement of the swirling, shifting forces, winds and tides lifting the boat, filling the sails, taking us wherever we’re going, not forever, but for right now.
I gobbled up your thoughts on this as it's something I've thought about myself (and we've discussed briefly). @Christine Morrison really nailed something for me when she wrote "I'm less original than I once was" and I think hones in on the rub I feel when I see my feed filled with similar outfits. I am ALL ABOUT taking inspiration from an outfit we see (even copying it the best we can), but I wonder if we are pushing back our own fashion instincts because we can't hear them over the noise of social media.
Your description of your mom "She’s a killer student, and always hard at work" is a great descriptor for myself too. I have to WORK a bit harder than someone else but I'm always aiming for the upper left quadrant in your chart (which I may just print out and hang up ;)). Obviously the intersection of confidence and originality lays the skilled curator and (probably) the influencers who grow organically.
I could discourse about this all day long and welcome the challenge of my judgement on the subject!
So, so interesting!! I found myself nodding along as I was reading this, all the way to the end. I'm thinking that the people we think of as originals are also influenced (because no man is an island), but they stick to their guns. They have confidence and do what they want / feel is right. Christine's point re: feeling like she's lost some of her originality is really thought-provoking. I feel like I can relate to that. I wonder if that's because of social media? It's so fast-paced that we don't have the time to digest what we see, trends and fashions and such. Maybe we're losing our processing skills, and hence we feel like we're just copying constantly, rather than referencing according to our own tastes and preferences. Maybe personal taste and preference is something we're failing to safeguard, out of fear of being left behind or being ridiculed?
Random side note: I've been re-reading David Lynch's part-biography/part-memoir called Room to Dream. I think we all think of Lynch as one of those great originals, but I was struck by how much Lynch has been influenced by things like the classic Americana, meditation, Taoism, Buddhism, industrial revolution, electricity, all of these things. What shows in his work is the pure fascination with these topics. Like the title of the book suggests, he has room to dream up his own thing and then make it happen. (And he has the confidence to stick to it.)
Oh also I love the diagram you came up with, and as always, thank you for the shout out. I appreciate you!