The Closet Pyramid

Take a look + tell me .. are you over-indexed on dessert?

Last week, this past weekend (and ok, in general) I spent a lot of time in my closet. As my friend Christian (@wastenotwantnotstyle) and I mentioned on a recent live, because we love style, we’re constantly culling. Evaluating.

To do it effectively, you have to keep forcing your eye to see — really see — what you’ve got. There’s a tendency to gloss over, rather than face, the items we recall loving or want to love. We mentally say “you’re great” without truly seeing and reckoning with them.

One of the tricks I’ve used from time to time but not shared (I worried … was it .. weird?) is what I call The Clockwise Challenge. I’m in the midst of one now. Basically, instead of wearing whatever you’re in the mood for, you force yourself to wear what’s physically “next” in the closet, going in clockwise order. It removes the emotion and forces the reckoning, of yes, I paid a lot/love the idea/chased this item BUT realistically for me/my lifestyle/my body/my evolution it just doesn’t make sense.

Every time I do one of these Clockwise Challenges, I learn A LOT. This time a few things really hit me.

The biggest: I realized my working language (which includes Tibi language—Have-to-Haves, WOFs, In + Outs) wasn’t quite right. I love Tibi and the clothes and much of the language, but words/ideas are important for me (I’m a writer by trade so I can’t help using words very specifically as tools). I needed something different to understand what I have, know what I want to get rid of, and buy better going forward. Let me explain:

• Have-to-Haves as a term of language applies to everything I own except maybe sports bras etc. I feel a lot of emotion around virtually all my clothes. I can’t really understand the term it as it’s been defined. Sometimes Amy says: “something people would be surprised that you love but you had to have it” — for me I don’t think anyone would be surprised by much. I’m faceted and vast. And sometimes something that’s quite utilitarian is so exceptional that I feel I “have to have” it. So that confuses me.

• In and Outs: As a term I don’t like the idea that things go in and out based on trend, i.e. what’s not feeling good “right now.” For me it’s more that I have some pieces I could and AM ready to wear at any given moment … but I can’t wear them every single day for practical reasons. I don’t bring them out for a time and then bring them back again. They’re wearable whenever with the right circumstances in place.

• WOFS: without fails. I get this. These are the pieces that can do no wrong, work every time, are generally 4 seasons, fix an “off” outfit, etc, etc. Without Fail is an apt term. But for me, a lot of Tibi is “without fail.” This is literally why I buy from this brand. Like my organza lantern skirt (now on sale!) would be a special piece, a Have-to-Have for many I guess or an In and Out? For me this is Without Fail. I could wear this in my real life every single day. And often (almost) do.

And also: These three categories are certainly not the only ones in the closet. And if we’re aiming for true non-bifurcation (another great Tibi term), we need something that accounts for an entire closet, not leaving out those workhorse essentials which I’ve started bringing into my everyday (think colorful sports bras under sweaters, perfect knee cap legging worn with blazers or under transparent skirts).

So I fiddled around with this (on scratch paper, because #sustainability), and came up with what I think really works, at least for me. But I’d love to hear your POV. So it’s a reverse pyramid, which lets you read in order of importance:

Now here’s how I think about it. And some items may fit in more than one category. That’s great if they do!

Golden Children: Like leafy greens that don’t suck, you want your closet to be mostly these cool, pushed or just well-done essentials. They work with everything, can always be counted on, can do no wrong. They reflect your core style DNA, but not necessarily your modifier, though it’s better if they do. Certainly they make my most Miami things work. Many of these are Tibi for me (like my many pull-on pleated skirts); honestly this is why I shop Tibi. I can count on them to be golden without needing to experiment.

Treasured Sometimes: The next biggest category (probably too big in my “diagram” though). These are pieces you love. You could wear them at any given moment. You have what you need for them to work and create outfits. You look forward to wearing them! But realistically, it’s not an everyday item. Probably not coming with you on a trip unless it’s going to be the hero piece and the rest of the packing built around it. Example: my Jil Sander Navy silk striped shorts (old, but these are amazing). Or the lime-y silk ones I’m in as I write this.

Best in Class: These are workhorse pieces with specific primary, workhorse uses. You may not get excited to shop for them, but shop carefully for the best workers out there, so they’ll be as enjoyable and useful across your closet as possible, not just for their planned use. The sports bra in a bright color. The white tanks you intend to use as under layers, etc. that can stand up enough to ride solo when the skirt is everything. “Best in Class” doesn’t mean expensive. It means you researched (or I did it for you LOL), and found the reliables.

Transformers: Usually accessories but might also be clothing. They punch really hard on your modifier. They are the instant add-on to make something feel so you. An outfit of your Golden Children often wants one for you to feel how you want to feel. They change the game. For me: Hanna You earcuff, anything neon, like this guy, my orange mini Puzzle bag. I have lots of these, but you could have just a handful. They work hard and often take up little space.

The Museum: These are the items you may never wear. Like, you literally may never put them on again. Yet they aren’t going anywhere. In a food pyramid they might be more like cigarettes than dessert. Some are about extreme emotional attachment (I have a single striped slipper my great grandmother knitted). Or about your deep love of fashion. I have a furry Old Celine vest with these velcro sides that I just can’t part with. It’s too epic. Even though I just can’t wear it climate wise. I get joy knowing it’s in my life. It’s crucial to keep these items to a minimum, yes, but also to face them. That is, don’t pretend you’ll one day start wearing them, which deludes you into having too many and/or buying more.

Now let me walk you through some examples, using shots from my recent Clockwise Challenge effort.

Here’s the skirt I hit on my clock that day. I was headed to errands and appointments. It’s an Old Celine skirt, and I was considering that I might get rid of it, though I love it (and even have the matching sweater). It’s a little heavy. I was thinking “I only wear it with the matching top to go out to dinner.” But I love it so I gave it a whirl. I tried it with this old gray Tibi tee (bought used). From the front, this looks like a Golden Child, but the peekaboo back makes it a Transformer; it’s that little peek of naked Miami that changes the game. These Pedro loafers are Golden Children. They make everything look fresh, and they’re functionally perfect.

I also tried it this way. The tee is a Transformer, giving me big Miami, balancing the conservative skirt length and classic-related shoe. It’s very old Marc Jacobs, falling apart. I will likely replace with this guy in size small (it’s mens), and I think the logo aspect in this context is funny, not showy. The Marc one has a logo too.

The shoulder pad top is Tibi on sale (or here if you’re in the US). It’s a Treasured Sometimes. (Same with the shoe!) A Treasured Sometimes because although it’s a classic shape and you’ll keep it forever, the exaggerated shoulder won’t look good with everything so you can’t wear it every day. I added the Celine sneaker now because with the loafer it had all become too serious. And the ($66!) navy belt is 100000% Golden Child. I could wear every day.

I’ve been feeling print mixing lately, so I gave that a whirl. The top is also Old Celine and the similar colors make it pretty calm. This top is a Treasured Sometimes. I still love it, and it’s in my closet because I still want to and look forward to wearing it. But it’s not going to “make” the look with Miami BAM! It’s not going to be the workhorse that makes a crazy piece work, either. And I’m not going to wear it every day. But when I do I’ll feel great.

And finally, the above, which is what I chose to wear on this particular day. (I liked all the looks; this was what I was in the mood for.) I knew the colors would work because they work in the Jamaican flag! The brown shoe makes it not so matchy. It’s so over the top with the pearls that you can tell I’m not preppy, I’m winking at preppy. This top is almost a Golden Child. It makes a lot of things work. But because of the logo/specificity, it’s not an everyday problem solver. I can’t wear it with everything. Still I go to it more than a Treasured Sometimes, and it is very easy to pair (versus the TS, which needs the right other players). This one is actually a Transformer. When things look too blah, faded, lady to feel like me, this is instant, unisex, punch. (Sold out; this is closest.)

Ok so what’s the point? There are a few of them; since I am of the Cliffs Notes generation, I’ll summarize:

(1) Golden Children should be the meat of your closet, and what you predominantly look for at sale time. Just remember, you’re really looking for potential Golden Children. You won’t know for sure til you start wearing it; though you’ll get better and better at finding them over time.

(2) Beware over-indexing on Treasured Somethings. You have to think about them when styling, and they’re not everyday players, but they call out to us. Make sure you feel you’ll want them more than for a minute, so not trend-based. And that they don’t raise a problem your existing wardrobe can’t solve. (Like if you have to buy a camisole just for this.)

(3)When shopping for the functional stuff (aka the Best in Class), the name should remind you to decide with care! Only buy items you’d be able to wear elsewhere, i.e. solid legging not gym-y stripes. Don’t cheat yourself by looking for bargains and splurging on other categories. We spend a huge amount of time in these clothes! I go to bat on that issue in my “Radical Style De-Compartmentalization” blog.

(4) Transformers are tied to your modifier, so they’re very instinctive. It’s great to collect them slowly over time, serendipitously. Another good thing to pick up at sale or on summer travels. You can also use them to reverse engineer your modifier if you’re stuck. Start by determining what makes you feel “so you” in a look. What changes your nothing to something. Gather these pieces together. Ask yourself (or a friend) what adjectives connect them.

(5) And the museum. (Aka “dessert” on the food pyramid.) Treat it like a true curator would. There isn’t unlimited wall space. Take a look from time to time; sometimes I determine that I can in fact part with something. Don’t beat yourself up if you can’t. But don’t keep something just because you once loved it. Each piece in there should be truly worthy of a gilded frame.

(6) When an outfit feels lacking, start with asking if you need a Golden Child or a Transformer. Usually missing one or the other is the issue. Together they represent your DNA; it’s another way at getting at this. (Of course, don’t forget to try an LMA in a pinch!)

These are tools/terms I’ll be using. I also want to pull together some favorites in these categories (watch this space!). Feel free to ask for questions and clarifiers here or on IG anytime.

XO, Rachel

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